The art of fritoleri at the Venice Carnival

The Carnevale di Venezia is a rite and, for this reason, it cannot be defined merely as a worldly event of pleasure. It remains a historical reenactment, a natural continuation of the ancient tradition of the Dukes and their subjects. In short, aside from the millions of people who crowd the squares and streets of the capital of the Serenissima Republic every year... the launch of the Colombina on the Sunday before Fat Thursday... the masks that alienated identities and placed everyone on the same level... the legends and truths tied to love stories lasting only one night among the cold alleys and "calli" sometimes filled with a thin winter fog… apart from all this, the Carnevale di Venezia is the magical time when even the deepest soul of the old city of the Lion comes back to life every year without ever losing its splendor.

In all this, the art of the fritolèri returns. Who were they? The name recalls it. It was a true corporation that remained intact until the fall of the Lagoon Republic. They formed an association in the 1600s, consisting of seventy representatives, one for each area where they could practice the art of frying this extraordinary product. In this corporation, only the sons of the fritolèri could succeed their fathers and be guaranteed the right to sell. Therefore, the fritolèri were a true corporation with rights and duties and a registration in the register of arts and crafts, because the Dukes did not let a single penny of contribution slip by.

But what were the frittelle in Venice? Let’s not think of the classic round ones with various fillings, from raisins to cream and more... The real fritoa venesiana was what is still called elgalàn today. It had a shape that, after frying, was meant to recall the sun and the light of the city of San Marco. A dough of eggs, flour and sugar, butter, a pinch of anise or grappa, and a pinch of salt. This was the historical recipe that, even today, the renowned Venetian pastry shops propose after hundreds of years.

The mastery of the fritolèr was to roll out the dough with the rolling pin (the "mescola") until the sheet became almost a veil that let light through from the other side. They then cut out diamonds or strips 4-5 centimeters wide and 2 long, making two diagonal cuts in the center of the dough with a "rueléta" (small wheel). The frying happened just right at Carnevale, also because they could use all the lard that came from the traditional processing of the pig at Sant’Antonio Abate. The lard was kept in large bowls made of terracotta, glass or stone and then served as natural fat for frying. Once thrown into the large pots over the live fire, the strips of dough expanded to form the typical "grostòli," that is, the bubbles that resulted from cooking and remained on the surface of the dough. The finishing touch was done with a light dusting of sugar.

This ancient recipe has been handed down intact even today in Venetian homes, and today has become a typical recipe that has crossed the canal and infected the entire peninsula. In addition to the classic galàni we have told you about, there were also the more classic frittelle or fritoe produced with a mixture of flour, milk, eggs and sugar. Then, either raisins, lemon, or grated apples were added. At this point, a pinch of brewer's yeast is added, and it is allowed to rise a bit at a warm temperature.

Once, it was left near the fireplace or stove (the "stùa"). After rising, about an hour, hot oil or lard was taken in a saucepan, and the preparation of the frittelle began. A spoonful of dough is dropped directly into the oil, and one waits for it to round, spread out, and become a small, swollen golden ball. In this case, they can also be dusted with some sugar on the surface.

Finally, there are the delicious faète or favette which were made with the same dough for the galàni that was left whole, then small pieces were taken, rolled between two hands and then fried directly in the oil or lard. Again, they were finished with powdered sugar on the surface. The balls took on a spherical shape with a characteristic small crack.

The art of the Venetian fritolèri has been handed down from generation to generation to all the homes of the Venetian people and beyond. Some pastry shops still remain very faithful to the ancient Serenissima recipe today. Their skill is to make you breathe in the aroma that filled the calli and "rii" of the Venetian capital during the carnival period with artisanal sweets and desserts typical of that time. A good flavor that has remained faithful through the centuries.

Bernardo Pasquali 

S&M