Interview with Giovanna and Federica Mascheroni Stianti - pt. 2 | Travel Italy

In the last episode we learned about the merits and virtues of the Volpaia estate, its history and its connection with the Stianti-Mascheroni family: in this sequel we will deepen our knowledge of the wines produced here, starting with their label.

Why does a church appear on the label of your Chianti Classico?

“This is not just any church, but a national monument declared as such in 1982: the sacred building is dedicated to Sant'Eufrosino and symbolizes Volpaia in an unambiguous way. This particular label, then, still bears my name, but from next year only the wording “Castello di Volpaia” will be read — collectors are warned! ”, Giovanna jokes

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And what do we find inside the bottle?

This blend is composed of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Merlot. Our Riserva, on the other hand, is pure Sangiovese: once white grapes were also used to produce Chianti, but it was unsuitable for obtaining a strong wine. We never wanted our wines to be light, even if now the public's taste is moving in this direction; we always wanted them to be good, and this has led us to export them also to Canada and the United States

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In addition to what is inside the bottle, it is important to evaluate the production context, which being organic is particularly delicate. It is necessary to protect the vineyard and play ahead of time, to anticipate any problem and prevent its onset, in a continuous challenge that requires a constant presence among the

vines.

Does climate change affect harvest and production? What has changed in the last thirty years?

The rainfall pattern is perhaps the most obvious sign of the climatic difference between the present and a few decades ago.

Now the rain falls in one breath, in a short period of time, drenching the ground: to overcome this problem, let the grass grow in such a way that it can absorb it and limit damage.

In Volpaia, three crus wines are produced: “Coltassala”, “Il Puro” and “Balifico”. Shall we talk about the first one?

Coltassala started as a table wine, being 95% Sangiovese. At the time, producers thought about quantity rather than quality, but we chose the correct clone from which to start: we were lucky to have an expert in grafting, who was not paid piecework but could concentrate on agronomic practice without haste

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The remaining 5% of the blend is composed of Mammolo, a grape that alone would not have enough strength to ripen but which offers a kinder touch to the wine when combined with Sangiovese. Its presence gives a floral note to the structure of Coltassala. Returning to the climate issue, if a hailstorm destroyed Mammolo's vineyard we would not be able to produce the blend, being only one: fortunately for

now it has never happened.

Here in Volpaia, blind tasting experiences are also conducted: how can you recognize the difference between the wines

mentioned on these occasions?

“Our Chianti Classico is more delicate than Coltassala, we can recognize red fruits such as cherries inside. In Coltassala, on the other hand, you can smell fruits such as blackberries or sour cherries, especially when tasting this 2018 Grand Selection aged in barrels: depending on the vintage, it remains 18 to 24 months in cask, and then continues with at least 6 months of aging in bottle. My favorite is Magnum, with 0.75cl you don't get the same results at all,”

explains Federica.

“Finally, Balifico is 65% Sangiovese combined with 35% Cabernet Sauvignon; it's a Super Tuscan that does not follow the Chianti production rules, of course.”

It should be noted that your family was the first to use the controlled fermentation method for wine production. Is that correct?

“Yes, we certainly experimented a lot with fermentation, changing the method at least five times: we started with stainless steel, so we immediately designed a system that would control the temperature to avoid losing the aroma of the wine. We tried cement, clay, but personally I love these alternatives less,” says Giovanna

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As for the more technical data on the cultivation of vines in Volpaia, the elevation of the vineyards is surprising. How many meters above sea level are we?

The lowest vineyard is the so-called “Castellino”, approximately 350 meters high. The highest vineyard, on the other hand, is 650 meters high, with a rocky soil that offers minerality to the wine. All the harvests are done by hand and are very difficult. The higher vineyard is subject to a windier climate, which is a

good thing.

The temperature range between day and night is quite perceptible even in summer, as is the rise in temperature; for vineyards located lower this last trend is becoming a problem. We simply harvest the grapes a little earlier.

To discuss these and other issues, among other things, you are part of the Radda Winemakers association.

Exactly. Networking is essential for the exchange of ideas, cooperation and the positive impact on the wine market that can be had if you combine your energies

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A final question to Federica about food-wine combinations, to whet our audience's appetite: which dish would you pair with Chianti Classico?

I

often tell a particular episode for which, when I was in Hong Kong, I asked a journalist to choose a food for me to combine with Chianti: he brought me a plate of boiled white fish that I looked at with amazement, not understanding how it could be suitable for wine... And yet I was surprised. In fact, the sauce in which the fish was marinated was fatty enough to stand up to the wine. As a rule, however, I would recommend a meat dish or a spicy dish

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Thanks to both of you for this long chat and... Happy tasting to our readers!