/ Our magazine / Cheese: history and evolution between taste and tradition.
/ Our magazine / Cheese: history and evolution between taste and tradition.
The origins of cheese are uncertain, although it is said that the first to obtain this preparation, about 18 thousand years ago, were the shepherds of Mesopotamia. According to an Arab legend, the birth of cheese was a coincidence, due to the carelessness of a shepherd who, transporting milk through the desert in a bag made from a goat's stomach, observed a change. Through the heat, the enzymes on the wall of the bag had reactivated and, with the help of the movements of the liquid during transport, had transformed the milk into a yellow, grainy substance: curds.
The oldest testimony of cheese production is a Sumerian bas-relief dating back to the 3rd millennium BC, known as the “Frieze of the Dairy”: here, the priests are depicted working with milk. It is in 2800 BC that in Italy, following the earlier spread of sheep and goat farming, the production of soft cheese began.
The word cheese comes from "formos", a term with which the ancient Greeks referred to the wicker basket used in the production of this food. During this period, cheese was present both in daily life, as nourishment for, for example, Olympic athletes, and in mythology: Zeus was said to have been fed with the milk and cheeses of the goat Amalthea. In Imperial Rome, cheese became the prince of the table, with various preparations consumed during banquets.
Starting from the Middle Ages, cheese production passed into the hands of monks. Initially considered food for the poor, it began to be appreciated by the richer classes in its more prized varieties over the centuries. It is at this moment that the variants of cheese inherited from the tradition of ancient Rome start to differentiate decisively. The monasteries are the center of this first phase of creating the cheese varieties we now define as classic, such as Montasio dop, Grana Padano dop , and Mozzarella, invented in the 12th century in the Abbeys of Moggio Udinese, Chiaravalle, and San Lorenzo di Capua. Furthermore, approximately from 1200, in the Parma area and in Lower Lombardy, adairy industry began to develop, with a high level of specialization both in terms of mechanics and craftsmanship. The development of the dairy industry continues into modern times, gradually favoring cow's milk over sheep's milk, which was more commonly used in antiquity, and perfecting those regional particularities that will become the treasure of typical Italian production.
The production of cheeses today must face the challenges of technological evolution, as market demands must be reconciled with the rhythms of changing society. Nowadays, with the increased use of machinery and drugs for livestock, we see a complete replacement of wooden utensils, essential until the 1970s, which have been replaced by tools made of aluminum, plastic, and stainless steel for hygiene reasons, although they are still present in small artisanal structures. In the span of about twenty years, we have transitioned from hand milking to mechanical milking machines, from a process that was almost entirely manual to the use of plants that have truly revolutionized production in terms of quantity and standardization, but which have seriously threatened an important part of the dairy tradition: the human touch. With increasing automation, there is indeed a risk of decreasing employment, losing the craftsmanship of past cheesemakers, the passion that only human hands can imprint on products, and the transfer of tradition to new generations. In summary, innovations in production are undoubtedly positive for market competitiveness, for greater hygiene standards, and for ensuring that product quality remains consistent, but care must be taken not to lose that artisanal touch, rich in knowledge, that truly brings out all the aromas of tradition.
From food for the poor, cheese has definitely earned a starring role in the kitchen: in its thousand varieties, it takes part in the most disparate preparations, whether sweet or savory.
Raw pasta cheeses, for instance, lend flavor to soups and veloutés, making them even creamier. One can let a bit of Gorgonzola dop, Fontina dop , or Taleggio dop melt, to give an innovative touch to an everyday dish. For first and second courses, the options are limitless. In these cases, both raw pasta cheeses and cooked pasta cheeses can be used, whether they are the focal point of the dish or just an addition to enhance flavor: from classic spaghetti Cacio e pepe to a cheese platter with mustard and jams, without forgetting casseroles, wraps, risottos, and anything else you can think of.
Although cheeses have a broader use in savory dishes, there are also delicious desserts made with this ingredient. Paying attention to the choice of type of cheese to use, both in terms of consistency and flavor and aging, one can prepare fresh and original desserts. The best cheeses for desserts are fresh cheeses, creamy and not too salty, such as Ricotta, Mascarpone, or Caprino: with these, one can prepare, for example, the American Cheese Cake or the famous Tiramisu in various forms.
In short, cheese is the king of the kitchen and a symbol of tradition and Italian identity in the world, and with its thousand varieties, it fits perfectly into culinary experimentation. Therefore, it cannot be denied that cheeses are essential and indispensable when it comes to eating well and eating Italian.
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