The Roman pangiallo is a winter sweet that dates back to ancient Rome and carries with it the history of a people who celebrated the winter solstice.
Called "pangiallo" for its golden color and round shape, it was originally a symbol of good fortune for the return of the sun during the darkest season of the year.
With the advent of Christianity, this custom transformed into a Christmas tradition, adding sweetness to the celebrations.
The traditional pangiallo was made with a dough of dried fruits, honey, and candied citron.
After baking, it was covered with a delicious egg batter.
Roman housewives were known for drying the pits of summer fruits such as plums and apricots to use them instead of expensive almonds and hazelnuts.
Today, pangiallo is available in numerous pastry shops and bakeries in Rome and the Castelli Romani, with some variants also found in other regions like Ciociaria, Viterbo, Tuscany, and Umbria.
Furthermore, over time, many variants of pangiallo have emerged, with some replacing the classic yellow glaze with chocolate.
A famous variant is the "Pangiallo Viterbese", which adds a touch of pepper, probably due to the influence of the Umbrian "Panpepato".
The pangiallo may not be the most popular sweet anymore, but it retains a tradition and flavor that withstand the test of time.
The pastry shops of the Castelli Romani continue to produce this delicious Christmas sweet, and many enthusiasts keep the tradition alive by making it at home to share with friends and family during the holidays.
The origins of the Roman pangiallo can be traced back to a chapter dedicated to desserts in the ancient "De re coquinaria" by Apicius, a famous chef of the time.
The recipe suggested a mix of honey, wine, raisins, rue, pine nuts, walnuts, barley flour, and roasted walnuts.
Traditional recipes also included spices like saffron and black pepper.
There are differing opinions on the source of the characteristic golden color of the top layer of pangiallo.
Some believe that the spices in the dough become more intense during baking, giving the typical amber color.
Others suggest covering the pangiallo with a egg batter before baking, while others believe that the addition of saffron can intensify the color.
With an ancient history and exceptional flavor, the Roman pangiallo continues to delight tables during Christmas, carrying on a tradition that celebrates light and hope in the heart of winter.
Angela Cordioli
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