Affinato or ubriaco? What is the difference? The answer lies precisely in their names, but we will explain it to you in more detail.
The refinement technique involves all cheeses that transform their structure and aromatic olfactory characteristics through a process of aging, usually in anaerobic conditions, in contact with natural products of plant or animal origin.
To "ubriacare" a cheese specifically means to process cheese in contact with wine, in its various types.
In both cases, it is a change that is not only superficial and partial but affects the heart of the product.
Today, in fact, there are too many commercial operations that tend to trivialize a product that instead has a great dignity. A true category apart from classic natural cheeses. Refining is an art, and we can say it: it belongs to few.
A national benchmark for refinement techniques is undoubtedly Antonio Carpenedo, the owner of La Casearia Carpenedo, which today represents the most important brand of Italian refined cheeses. This is affirmed not only by critics, journalists, and master tasters but also by the most important Italian producers and refiners. Hansi Baumgartner states this without a doubt, as does the legendary Luigi Guffanti.
The word “ubriaco” itself was coined by Antonio Carpenedo and has even been patented as a true method of cheese processing.
Refining means starting from a high-quality toma, which is then processed in stone caves, or sealed with spices, herbs, or various types of hay inside wooden barriques.
The "ubriacatura" can, instead, be done by placing the tomas in large wooden vats and immersing them in wine or musts, or also in contact with the same fermented pomace. These are very long and delicate processes that must be followed at particular temperatures. The preparations must ensure a centripetal permeation of the external elements into the cheese. This allows the flavor to invade the cheese and characterizes its peculiarity. Be wary of cheeses that are well colored on the outside but then taste like nothing inside. It is a pure and simple scam.
Be cautious of refined and "ubriaco" cheeses that do not cost much more than their unprocessed tomas. These are costly procedures that require periods ranging from shorter to longer and a very specific and prolonged manual activity.
We have selected the greatest refiners in Italy for you. Spaghetti & Mandolino is, moreover, the official online sales portal of La Casearia Carpenedo by Antonio Carpenedo. We wanted this from the very beginning to guarantee all of you the utmost seriousness and authenticity of the product!!
Bernardo Pasquali
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